The arbitrariness of restaurant awards, how (not?) to relocate a farmers' market, and why cows need trees
Food news and suchlike, pertaining to Somerset and beyond
Hello hello and yes it’s that time of the month again for news, observation, and comment from your favourite (or not least tolerable?) food journalist. This month’s theme, if there was one: How we might better support nature-friendly farming and the good and brave people undertaking it.
Alright then, strap in.
I find it refreshingly honest when people call out food awards as charade. Said Mangal 2 co-owner Ferhat Dirik recently when they were named as the 35th best restaurant in London by the National Restaurant Awards in 2022: “Were we deserving of being named 35th best? Objectively, no. We were still finding our feet and perfecting our craft. The year after, we were 87th, even though we felt we were improving. Since then, we haven’t even been on the list.” I feel a deep-dive into the trite popularity contests that are food and restaurant awards coming on…
Below the paywall: When Kim Jong-il bought a South West brewery, why trees play an important part in animal welfare, how to access a local food book library, another reason why regenerative agriculture could save the world, and more besides.